So You Wanna Travel North Macedonia…

A place that wasn’t really on my list until a friend mentioned that it’s one of the weirdest places on earth, for no particular reason. And then I was sold.

North Macedonia is a small country in the Balkans, landlocked between Bulgaria, Serbia, Kosovo, Albania, and Greece. There are a million reasons to visit North Macedonia, but here are a few along with some knowledge on what and how to do it!

How on earth do you even get there?

The cheapest and most economical way for a US citizen to visit Macedonia is by flying into a larger city nearby. A roadtrip in the Balkans was at the top of my list a few years ago, so I did a lot of research to make it happen on a budget. I recommend flying into Sofia or Dubrovnik as those are the two major cities closest. Then you can drive yourself to North Macedonia and see the most lovely views along the way. There aren’t a lot of trains in this area or I would recommend that. Otherwise, if you’re short on time, you can hop on a short flight to Skopje, the capital.

Ohrid

On my journey, my cousin and I flew into Dubrovnik, spent a couple days looking for dragons, and drove through Montenegro (stunning) and Albania (wild), to get to the gorgeous Lake Ohrid. Don’t ask me to say the word aloud because I never got it right. There is a town on both sides of this deepest/oldest lake in Europe, and we opted to stay on the Macedonia side vs the Albania side (a choice I was pleased with after driving through the intuition stress nightmare that was Albania).

Ohrid was the most precious town. A quaint and quiet feel, with friendly people and loads of history. A perfect vacation getaway in a lovely location. Lots of eat, slow pace, very walkable. There is a small shop where they make paper, (maybe it’s where paper was made originally?), but they still do it, and it’s really cool to witness.

We were staying in a bnb near an old amphitheater in the hill, and on our last night we witnessed a very loud and boisterous political rally. We never found out what for…

After Ohrid, we made our way to Skopje, the strangest city…well, ever.

Why is Skopje so strange?

Honestly, I can’t even tell you. The city just has a weird vibe in the best way. It’s so fun. You never know what you’re going to run into or what’s going to happen next. Here’s my experience in a nutshell.

The Boat Fire

We arrived in Skopje to our cooky hostel where we shared a room with an 18 year old Russian boy who snored. We were walking distance to Alexander Plaza which is basically the city center, so we walked on over to check out the area after the rain subsided a bit on our arrival. On the path to Alexander Square, we noticed two or three giant wooden boats atop the river bed. They didn’t really look functional, but it seemed like there were restaurants inside. We got some food in the main square and on our walk back, we noticed one of the boat’s stairs was ON FIRE. So obviously, my cousin and I became looky-loos and watched until the sexy Macedonian firefighters put the fire out completely. I mean, it was our FIRST night in Skopje…how could you not?!

The Dog Guide

So much had already delighted me before our walking tour the first morning, so I couldn’t wait to continue the strange journey. Our guide had an unofficial guide, a dog they call Alexander who knows the tour like the back of his paw, and led us around to all the stops and graciously accepted pets at each one. There were many dogs along the way, some joined the tour, and stopped off occasionally to wait for scraps at a restaurant, or to lay in some nice grass. I’ve been on dozens of walking tours in the world, and I’ve never had dog guides such as this. It was delightful, and I would have paid extra.

The Statues

On our walking tour, we saw tons of old looking statues and art that seemed ancient. We learned that most were only a few years old. They had been art installations in the 2010s to help the city attract more tourists…they built more than 136 statues. The locals did not like how much money was spent on these “tourist attractions” and it feels ironic that now a lot of people visit just to count the statues in an almost mocking way. Regardless, I find it amusing and strange, and part of Skopje’s unique charm.

The Old Bazaar

The first half of the tour one on one side of the river, then we crossed the stone bridge to venture into the Old Bazaar. And when I tell you that these places felt like different planets, I cannot put it any other way. The Old Bazaar is one of the Balkans oldest markets, and the people are loud, everything is vibrant, and it feels more authentic. (versus the fake old new statues lining the other area). The Bazaar is vast, winding cobblestone, and loads of shops. We definitely got lost after our tour ended and we decided to explore it more.

Mother Teresa’s House

Mother Teresa lived in Skopje from 1910-28, and there is a Memorial house for her in Skopje. It is a peaceful tourist attraction worth stopping in to experience.

Dinner on the Boat

After watching one of the token fake boats catch on fire the night prior, we thought we should probably eat dinner on one, just in case they catch on fire again. We ate delicious pasta on the top of a non-functional boat in the middle of the river of Skopje, and it was delicious.

The Best Cocktails in Skopje

After dinner, we didn’t quite know where to stop for a cocktail, but google reviews led me to a bar in the bottom of a hotel chain. I was skeptical. I generally avoid chains, but there wasn’t many options, and I was willing to give this a go. I’m so glad I did. That night, we were served by the most creative mixologist I’ve ever met. I looked at his menu and gave him a knowing compliment on his inventiveness right away. He recognized us as “not-a**holes” and took an extreme liking to us. He brought us to a nicer table, picked up our bags to hang up on a rack. He then proceeded to bring us off-menu concoctions special for us. He comped the drinks in exchange for our feedback. He sat with us and told us about his methods of infusing local herbs and things, and his menu which had a history and reason for each ingredient in each drink related to the city of Skopje. His passion for cocktail creation and his city was striking and addicting. We enjoyed several cocktails and said our goodbyes, promising to visit again someday…and we went back on our last night for a few more cocktails. If you’re ever in Skopje, you must look up Distrikt Bar & Kitchen, and find Gjorgi (say hi).

The Museum of the City of Skopje

In a former railway station (which definitely still looks like a railway station), there is the strangest museum I have ever witnessed. I know I keep saying that, but I’ll tell you my experience and then you might just take my word for it. Most museums, even modern ones, have an entrance way, maybe a ticket booth, and then large rooms full of art (right?). Walk in, it’s cramped. To your right, a case of trophies, a chessboard floating in the middle. Next to the trophies, a case of different sized beakers, something that looks like a popcorn machine, pictures of a lady with the beakers. In another case, various lotion bottles, perfumes, and toiletries. A picture of a mulleted baby, a teddy bear, and old bottles of cream. A room with various large machinery. A glass case of what looks like the outfits the Beatles wore for an album cover. Many cases with pills and pill boxes. Pictures of marketing for all pills and face creams. And then we come to my favorite bit…old commercials running on loop. People going about their daily life and also putting face cream on in spots (while they’re doing other tasks). “Young Derm” appears on the screen, a random lady swimming, and then a couple kiss. The end. Next commercial: singing toothpaste. As in: toothpaste comes out of the tube with a face and TEETH, and sings “Assodent” and a little tune. It was incredibly disturbing and I still love it. You can’t make this stuff up, and I wish I could show you every video and picture I have.

Our Last Dinner

We found a spot called Old City House for dinner. It’s been open since 1836 (think about that Americans!). We had one of the best meals ever, traditional Macedonian dishes in an incredible setting. The building interior was filled with rock and a small pond, many plants and great vibes. Highly recommend.